Like Blade says cost's to restore will be a lot and you will be very unlikely to break even should you sell it, but is its for the enjoyment then go for it. Alas, as little as 20k caused clutch, camchain, valve and camshaft problems - high cost servicing is the VF's biggest vice and neglect turns out even more expensive, as ultimately the main bearings start knocking. If you buy a Magna (any size, 1984-1986), check to see if it has the kit installed, if not, try to find, buy and install one.Ĭomplex vee-four motor carried by adequate chassis makes for plenty of good times. Kits are available to fix this problem for the Magna.
The only thing we noticed during this process was the 4 cylinder shape parts with needles coming out the center were rather. The Magna version does not have these and can easily suffer from lack of oil to the cams (top of the enigine) reducing reliability. The carborator needed cleaning so a friend of mine who has worked on motocycles and I took the carborator apart, soaked most of the parts in a part cleaning solution and put it back together. While both engines are nearly identical, it is important to note the Interceptor version is superior to the two because of its modified cam oiling passage ways. rough cut video from first ride of project bike after fuel system overhaul, before carb sync/idle adjustment, air filter, or gas tank installation. Obv I am assuming you do not know all this (I might be wrong) but I hope this helps.Not sure what happened to the link:idunno: so below is a couple of extract from it. Rich condition: basically the exact opposite of the previous condition. Solution: reduce the air intake by the air adjustment screw or increase the fuel quantity of you have a fuel adjustment screw The VF500C V30 Magna lasted only two model years. Lean condition: simply mean the engine has either too much air to confuse properly or too little fuel. By 1984, Honda expanded the range up to the 1100 cc powerhouse V65 Magna and Sabre, and down to the VF700C Magna, 500 cc V30 Magna and Interceptor. Now if a screw is at the bottom of the carburator bowl (where the floats live) then it is a drain screw, you undo this when you want to drain the carb for storage.Īlso there are 2 terms when someone is referring to the air/fuel ratio: Lean & Rich If a screw is near the engine side of the carburator then it is a fuel adjustment screw (you adjust the fuel mixture by increasing or decreasing the quantity of fuel drawn into the engine). If a screw is near the air filter side of the carburator (intake of the carb) them it is an air adjustment screw (Which means the only way to adjust the ratio is by increasing or decreasing the air quantity being drawn into the engine)ī. Idle adjustment screw (located near the actual lever that your throttle cable oil pulls on to)Īir/fuel ration adjustment (also known as mixture adjustment)Ī. Usually a carb has the following bolts for adjustment
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