Good food speaks to all kinds of needs-communal, sensual, even spiritual. Plus, of course, whenever you talk about food-especially for me, the flavor of a beautifully-aged steak from a humanely raised animal-you're talking about a sustenance that goes beyond merely the nutritive. Julie: Well, meat, obviously, but also generally how the making of food, the participation in the process of getting good food from the field to your table, is not only educational but also an exploration of your own ethical stand on what you eat and why. What does Cleaving focus on in regards to food?
For the Julie & Julia book, you focused on finishing all the recipes in Mastering the Art of French Cooking (MtAoFC). WOW: It seems after people read your next book, there may be a new respect for butchers. She writes, “I thought you should know that I boned an entire pork leg, using just THIS.” Wow!) “.butchery is about violence-hacking and rending and brute strength. It's meditative and moving, I think-this ushering of a dead animal into something else beautiful and nourishing. It's about allowing the meat to tell you how the muscles want to come apart, how to find that crevice between the joints. Eighty-five percent of butchery is done with the one-inch tip end of a thin, five-inch knife. Julie: Well, there's this perception, which I myself shared before I began my apprenticeship, that butchery is about violence-hacking and rending and brute strength.
WOW: Hearing your answer makes me want to look up my local butcher and see what it’s all about! So, what was your favorite part of working as a butcher? I envied the physical confidence and skill and knowledge that comes from having done the same work for decades upon decades, work passed down for generations. So when I discovered my first real, old-school butcher shop, I was just overwhelmed by the sights and the smells and especially by the men behind the counter. When I was growing up in Austin, Texas, all my meat came from a supermarket, wrapped in cellophane. Julie: Butchers have fascinated me ever since I moved to New York.
Why did you decide to take on this career? For Cleaving, you trained as a butcher in New York City. We are thrilled to hear about your writing journey and your new book, Cleaving: A Story of Marriage, Meat, and Obsession. WOW: Thank you, Julie, for taking the time out of your busy schedule to talk with WOW ! readers.
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